When we are just minutes away from sailing practically to the beards of the Jorge Montt Glacier, the idea that comes to mind is that those mountains around us have eyes. They watch us. Is it possible that this sensation that borders on madness could be happening? Everything is possible here in the immensity of the southern fjord during this tour in Chilean Patagonia, where an unimaginable bond is formed between you and nature.
Approximately two hours ago we set sail from Caleta Tortel, that town as if taken from a tale by the Grimm brothers and which is famous for its cypress pedestrian walkways that lie at the mouth of the Baker River,whicht is the largest in Chile. The mission is only one: to discover here in the Aysén region a little-explored glacier that falls into the sea in the northern part of the Southern Ice Fields.
Various boats set sail from Tortel to this massif of eternal ice. There are those who organize trips in rustic boats that are designed and built by their owners, people of effort and great tenacity capable of navigating even when the sea is rough. An experience that brings tourists closer to being in full interaction with Tortelina culture and traditions. The route goes through some fjords, and along the way we come across Isla Teresa and the Videau Peninsula, among other natural attractions. All this while we enjoy some local stories and a tasty snack that makes the trip more enjoyable.
An unexpected sunny day catches us wrapped in a silence that is only interrupted by the crunching of the ice. We are in Lake Jorge Montt in the heart of Chilean Patagonia. The icebergs, guardians of the Montt Glacier, prevent us from getting too close to its wall. It is one of the snowdrifts that have receded the most in recent years, so much so that scientific studies discovered that in 2010, the Montt dramatically receded almost a kilometer and a half, a situation only comparable to what happened with some glaciers in Greenland. It is estimated that this phenomenon is due to the depth of the fjord (about 400 meters), which facilitates the sinking and fracturing of the ice. Currently, records indicate that it has an area of approximately 465 square kilometers, and a width of one and a half kilometers.
The captain announces that he decides to turn to port towards a rocky but safe shore to disembark. There, the mountain slopes caress the sea. I'm not exaggerating. Happiness then is similar to that of a child with a new toy. Some take photos on top of chunks of ice. Others decide to explore on foot, up the hill, where the panoramic views are incomparable. Others contemplate some waterfalls from below. We wonder what or who is watching us, if we are alone -we think- doing this Chilean Patagonia Tour.
Suddenly we see something moving in the distance. An animal? Or have we confused the vegetation with some living being? It's a huemul! the guide yells at us. The meeting, obviously unexpected, is a gift. But also a certain possibility. While here we found out that it is one of the best areas of Aysén to see this native species of deer, along with the Tamango Reserve, which is located in the Patagonia National Park.
It's time for the “chase”. Despite the steepness of the slope, the most adventurous decided to climb up stealthily. As high as possible, hopefully. Up there the sighting will be easier, I think. And so, the effort is worth it. We have seen a little more closely the huemul in its quiet habitat, with the blessing of the nature of Chilean Patagonia.
Back to the boat, the captain has a surprise for us -One more-. It's time to crush some ice and serve a delicious cocktail. A toast. Cheers to the glacier! There is no better way to end this experience than by drinking a delicious whiskey with ancient ice. And we realize, too, that the Southern Ice Fields and the Chilean fauna are close at hand for those explorers who venture to Tortel.